Day 6

Salisbury – Yeovil – Yetminster – Sidmouth

Accommodation:  Coombe House B&B, Sidmouth

Weather:  Overcast and misty

Temperature:  up to 15 degrees

Our Salisbury accommodation was only a stone’s throw from the cathedral and as book out time was 12 noon this gave us the opportunity for a slower breakfast and time to meander around the cathedral before setting off again.

Salisbury Cathedral is described as Britain’s finest 13^th century cathedral with the country’s tallest spire at 123 metres.  Foundation stones were laid in 1220 and the spire added in 1310.  It took twenty years to build and you can see why…..such a beautiful spire and a real marvel in engineering.   The spire and tower weigh 6500 tons and so heavy that it has visibly bent the supporting columns and shifted the alignment of the tip of the spire by 75cms!  The cathedral is undergoing continual restoration and is lovingly tendered daily by volunteers including half dozen women who arrived with arms of flowers to decorate this wonderful church.

The Tomb of William Longspee lies in very good condition.  He was a half-brother of king John and one of the advisors of the formulation of the Magna Carta.  One of only four remaining copies of the Magna Carta (and the best preserved) is housed in the Chapter House.  It is surprisingly small – about 30cms by 40cms with incredibly small abbreviated Latin writing on vellum.   Unfortunately, photos weren’t allowed.

This document is of particular importance as the barons and bishops of the time forced King John’s hand to recognise the relationship and rights of the king and his subjects.  The king was also subject to this rule as well and this document forms the basis of many democratic documents to this day.

We then set off for Yeovil and Yetminster where my great-grandparents (James Critchell and Jane Miller)came from in the 1800s.  We drove through very pretty countryside and as we came closer to Yeovil we noticed many more thatched houses.  This was rather apt as my great-grandfather and his forebears were thatchers.  Yeovil is quite a pretty large town and as is the case in many towns we have come across is only accessible for pedestrians so with a help from some local women in a truly scrummy looking cake shop we managed to find the parking area.

The delightful church in Yeovil.

We wandered the streets and found a little café selling coffee and teacake.  David had immediately imagined an apple tea cake however British teacakes are flat, round and come halved and toasted…..a little like raisin toast. 

It was then off to Yetminster only 10kms away.  When we first arrived in the village we didn’t think much was there however after a look around and passing many thatched houses we came across the church with a wonderful green and beautifully kept graveyard.  I’m sure I would have some relatives buried there however time has overtaken many of the headstones and they are covered with moss or worn.  It was lovely to feel some connection to a little part of England.

As Yetminster is off the beaten track our GPS took us through many country lanes which were bordered by miles and miles of hedges.  Overhanging lime green branches made a very picture as we headed to Sidmouth for the evening.

We drove through Lymes Regis which looks a wonderful touristy town.  The bunting and window displays of union jacks and red, white and blue everywhere were abundant.  The country is getting into the mood for the Queen’s 60^th Jubilee.  I’ve resisted the temptation to purchase the napkins: “60 years a Queen” however there are some wonderful souvenirs.  The grand day of celebration is June 6 however David and I will be in Ireland. 

Sidmouth is described as part of the Riviera of England.  It does have some similarities to the French Riviera:  the water is too cold to swim in;  the beach is made of pebbles and accommodation near the ‘beach’ is very expensive!

We chose a B&B a kilometre back and saved ourselves 60 pounds!  We have a lovely room with an ensuite and a very kindly talkative host who pointed us in the direction of The Bedford Hotel for dinner.  It was right on the waterfront and we could see the local seascouts running amuck on the rocks and people walking the promenade.

I succumbed to the beer battered cod and chips which could only be described as ‘slab like’ such was the size of the portion!