Sunday, June 10, 2012


Day Twenty-Seven – Friday, 8 June 2012

Dublin

Accommodation – Lansdowne Hotel

Weather – wet and windy

Temperature – mid-teens

The day started off wet and ended wet.  It also produced gusty winds and we battled on with the rest of Dublin with inverted umbrellas and rain.
In Dublin's fair city........with Molly Malone.  Even Molly's bronze baskets were full of water!
Not to be deterred we made our way to Trinity College as we thought we may as well do things that can be done indoors.  Wrong!  The tour at Trinity is all conducted outdoors and we wandered the grounds of this old university with a group of about forty sodden people hovering under ledges and an ancient tree to glean some knowledge about this old institution.  After a few minutes of the tour I stopped taking notes as the paper was too wet and the pen wouldn’t write.
The queue to see The Book of Kells.  Earlier in the week the line had worked its way around the quadrangle and up to the Trinity entrance.   I don't know what is worse.....endless queue in good weather or a shorter queue wading in water!
Our tour guide was a student of the university and was wearing one of the traditional robes (a tad modernised I’d assume) which was made optional wear in the 1980s.  Of course, once it was made optional then it quickly went out of favour.

Trinity College was built on a former monastery in 1592 by Elizabeth I.  At present there are 16000 students enrolled at the university.

Included in our tour was entry to see The Book of Kells.  It was probably written in 800AD by the monks of Iona.  It had a chequered history including attacks by the Vikings and being ‘lost’ for a significant number of years before being sent to Dublin in 1653.

Before seeing The Book of Kells tourists pass large panels of information which give an insight into how the book was made.  It appears there were four ‘writers’ after an examination of the style of writing.  Each presentation letter at the commencement of the page was the monk’s opportunity to show some artistic flair and no capital letter is the same. 
Viewing the panels is a rather higgledy-piggledy affair and we made our way through some very eager red-scarfed pilgrims who were dead keen to read every panel.  A member of the pilgrims held a portrait of the Virgin Mary as each pilgrim passed a panel or entered a room.
When we finally reached the small glass covered showcase with The Book of Kells and two other illuminated books it was difficult to position yourself to have a good view.  I was reminded of chooks pecking at a handful of feed.  I hope in high season there is some sort of order – perhaps going in a clock-wise fashion to move people along.  I wondered if a mirror over the books could provide further viewing for those people waiting for a view would have helped.
It was then on to the Trinity College Library which is very long (65metres) and houses around two hundred thousand of the library’s oldest books.  In the library is the oldest harp to survive in Ireland and dates from about the fifteenth century.  It is made out of willow and oak and is quite small compared to modern harps.  This is the national symbol of Ireland and even appears on the Guinness label.
We left Trinity College with the rain still pelting down and gusting wind and found a café at Temple Bar for a coffee and cake.  It was great to be out of the inclement weather and in some warmth.  The next stop was the National Gallery of Modern Art which was on the route of the hop-on-off bus.  The old formal garden next to the gallery is very well tended however the wind was blowing a treat so we tried to find our way inside.  Unfortunately, you are not meant to find your way inside as it is under major renovation and any other areas were unavailable as a EU conference was about to take place.
I told you the weather was bad!!! The formal gardens next to the Gallery of Modern Art.
Finally worn down by the weather we caught our city hop-on-off bus back into the city, took in the sights of the city once more and then found our way back to our hotel.  The weather never let up all day and it was great that our hotel had its own pub on the premises in the basement and we didn’t have to head out again.

I ordered a super-greasy meal of a burger and chips with a sauvignon blanc…..I figured I deserved it after today’s weather!


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